Introduction
When considering how to make energy savings, lifestyle changes and environmental improvements within the home, many of us are concerned about the cost implications of any recommended measures – and rightly so. For example, it’s not just the cost of buying say top up insulation for the loft; it’s also the additional cost of paying a tradesperson to carry out the work. There’s also the disruption factor to consider.
We have therefore tried to ensure that the guide includes money saving advice and work that only requires minimal effort on your part. Where possible, we will also advise you of any measures that may be eligible for grants. For some measures it may be advisable to hire a reputable tradesperson and so advice is also given on how best to find someone you can trust to carry out the work to a good standard and at a fair cost. Check out Section 8 for information about grants and finding reputable tradespeople.
Article Links
There are also many links to articles, products, and services. These are not necessarily an indication that the information in the article is correct or that the product or service is recommended. Some of the information mentioned in the articles may be contradicted by other journalists or companies, and products can often be found to lose their efficiency or be unreliable in the long term.
You will notice that a number of links are to organisations that are specific to the area of Salford and this is because Salford is the area that we are located in and carry out most of our community work.
Other areas will have similar organisations and a web search should bring up the relevant details.
Note that we do not earn any monies or incentives from the articles or product links.
Reviews
Use our information and the links to any product or service, as a small part of your own research. If you intend to carry out any work that requires buying a product or service, check out as many reviews as possible. In particular, pay close attention to negative reviews as they provide a balance to the positive reviews that attracted you to the product or service in the first place.
By taking action such as reducing your energy usage, making lifestyle changes or carrying out eco-friendly improvements around your home and garden, you will join others around the world in making a positive contribution to the environment. This in turn helps wildlife and nature and you may also save money!
About the Sections
To make the guide more manageable, it has been split into a number of standalone sections. This will help householders who prefer to concentrate on making improvements one step at a time.
Weather can also play a part. For example, you may wish to improve your heating efficiency before winter sets in and use the summer months to create a wildlife friendly garden or maintain the outside of your home to save energy.
You may notice that some information is repeated in more than one section. This is because the information has some relevance to more than one section covered, and we know that not everyone wants to read the entire guide in one go.
It will also be the case that a link from elsewhere in the website or from an outside source may take you directly to the section you are interested in.
SECTION 1 Your Utility Bills
Firstly, take a look at your most recent gas and electric bills and note down how much energy you’ve used in the last 12 months. Additionally, if you have a water meter, jot down how much water has been used.
Assuming you are able to carry out a few water and energy saving measures, then in 12 months’ time you will be able to compare your usage and see what savings you have made. If utility prices haven’t increased, you will also reduce your bill.
♦ The next step is to compare energy suppliers
Currently, we are not allowed to change water suppliers, but now may be a good time to check out whether it’s worth changing the company that supplies our gas and electric.
If however, you are happy with your existing supplier and don’t want the hassle of moving over to a different company, then at least check your bill to see whether a cheaper tariff is on offer.
For those of you who would like to compare your tariff with other suppliers, then online is a good place to start. Our advice* is to use either one or both of the energy comparison websites created by Citizens Advice and the Which Consumer Group.
Alternatively, contact your local council as they may have a list of impartial local energy advisors who should be able to help you for free. An appointment with your local Citizens Advice centre could also be a good call.
By changing tariffs or your energy supplier, you should be able to save some money and this can fund some energy efficiency improvements to your home. Over time, this will bring about additional savings.
*The Benefits to using either the ‘Which Magazine’ or ‘Citizens Advice’ energy comparison website:
With information that can be found in one of your recent energy bills you will be asked to input certain details such as your postcode, existing tariff details and annual energy usage. Importantly, you will not be asked to give out your telephone number or email address. This means that you won’t receive any follow up calls or emails.
Both organisations are setup as charities and from either website you will be given details of any tariffs that can reduce your energy bill.
You will also be able to check out ‘green tariffs’, fixed rate deals, exit fees, customer service ratings and information on keeping any existing discounts (such as the warm home discount).
For anyone concerned about the hassle of switching energy suppliers, you will be able to choose one that has subscribed to the energy switch guarantee scheme. The aim of this voluntary scheme is to make it safer and as hassle free as possible to change your energy supplier.
As a rule most energy switching comparison websites only display tariffs from suppliers who offer commission; however, the ‘Which’ and ‘Citizens Advice’ websites present all tariffs. Be aware though, that other comparison sites may have negotiated exclusive and better deals with some energy suppliers.
Note: As with other energy switching sites, no information is included as to the financial stability of a particular energy supplier. Although customers are covered in the event of an energy supplier going bust, it may a while before you are transferred to another supplier (unlikely to be your choice and may also be more expensive).
♦ About Water Meters
If you do not have a water meter installed, your bills will be calculated on the rateable value of your home. Depending on your water usage, it may well be worthwhile to ask for one to be installed. Firstly though, you need to have a rough idea as to how much water you use.
To do this, go to your water utilities website and look for the water usage calculator. Next, enter some details about your everyday water usage. After these details have been entered, you will immediately be able to see the amount of money you could save by installing a water meter.
For anyone living in the Salford area, use the United Utilities Calculator
As many residents are aware, not everyone can have a water meter installed, as for example, the majority of residents living in apartments built prior to 1990. In those instances it is possible to put in a request for your bills to be based on the average water usage of the number of people in your household. This can work out cheaper than a bill based on rateable value and is especially so for a one or two person household with average water needs.
Our advice therefore, is that you contact your water utility company to find out whether savings can be made.
SECTION 2 Heating Your Home
Recommended Room Temperatures
No matter what type of home heating system you have, you will have a preference as to what the ideal temperature your thermostat should be set. As this can vary from person to person, it makes sense to make use of any guidelines that are available.
Government and other organisations such as Age UK recommend that whatever type of heating system you have, your living room should be maintained at between 18 to 21°C. This will protect the health of most people, but some older people or those with health problems may require slightly higher temperatures.
To help you sleep better at night, lowering the temperature by a couple of degrees is advisable. For infants, the recommended temperature whilst asleep is between 16 and 20°C.
Thermostatic Control Savings
It is worth pointing out that if you turn your thermostat down by just 1°C you will reduce your energy bill by up to 10%. If you still feel comfortable then great you’ve saved energy and some money. Wearing extra layers of clothing can be a great help in getting used to lower temperatures. Some types of clothing keep you warmer than others, with wool and fleece clothing being good examples.
Heating Your Home Struggles
Of course there are many households that struggle or do not have the means to warm their home to the recommended temperatures. Our guide offers lots of useful information, but for extra help and advice it will be worthwhile contacting your local council, energy supplier, citizens advice and other charities such as the NEA (a National Fuel Poverty Charity).
They may be able to help with applying for grants and other funds relating to financial hardship. Practical help may also be offered to make your home more energy efficient.
Find out a little bit more about the type of energy advice, help and grants that may be available:
1. Help to improve energy efficiency in the home – Salford City Council
2. Grants and benefits to help you pay your energy bills – Citizens Advice
3. Warm and Safe Homes Advice – NEA (National Fuel Poverty Charity)
Note: Although we’ve given a link to our local council (Salford), there should be the same equivalent information available through your own local council.
Central Heating Types
There are various types of central heating systems of which gas is by far the most popular and is currently the only one covered in this guide. At a later date we will cover the other forms of central heating such as underfloor heating and storage heaters.
Gas Central Heating Controls:
Tests conducted within the ‘Energy House Facility’ at Salford University, showed that the costs of running a gas central heating system with a full set of temperature controls was 40% less than the same system operated with a timer only. Great cost savings and energy savings are therefore possible.
Okay, from the above, we can safely deduce that if we have a full set of heating controls – a programmer/timer, room thermostat and radiators with thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) and know how to use them, we will save energy. Assuming your energy tariffs rates don’t increase, your bills will be lower.
However, from experience we know that many residents struggle to understand their heating controls. In the following sections we will attempt to explain the basics of what each control is for and how to use them.
This may not be enough as there may be a variation in the way different manufacture’s controls work. You may also not have the recommended controls to efficiently heat your home.
Therefore, if your home seems to be missing a control or you are unsure how best to use your controls or if in fact you are having heating problems in one or more rooms, then note down the issues and also the make and model of your boiler and room thermostat.
Next, contact either the manufacturer, your regular service engineer (if applicable) or your local friendly energy advisor. Ask them for help. The internet can also be a good source of information.
♦ Programmer/Timer Settings
For those of you with a regular lifestyle and assuming you are able to program your heating times, then setting the timer for the heating to come on half an hour before you get up should be sufficient to warm up your home. Remember to also set the timer so that the heating goes off about half an hour before you leave home. Similar settings can be used for your return home and bedtime.
Note that the programmer may not be a separate control and could be housed within the room thermostat unit or attached to your boiler.
♦ Room Thermostat
A room thermostat allows you to set the temperature in the room that it is located in. It has a sensor that measures the air temperature around it and then communicates to your boiler that it needs to be switched on or off to maintain your exact chosen temperature. It doesn’t matter what the temperature is outside.
A well-insulated home and an efficient heating system will result in fewer ‘requests’ from your room thermostat to switch on your boiler. Lower energy use and lower bills will be the result.
You should also be aware that the room thermostat can only communicate with the boiler during the times that the boiler has been programmed by you to be switched on. For example, from say 6am to 9am and 5.30pm to 10.30pm. Note that sometimes the room thermostat and programmer are housed within the same unit.
Be aware that turning up your room thermostat doesn’t speed up the rate at which your home heats up, it just heats it to a higher temperature and costs you more – especially if you then forget to turn it back down!
♦ Thermostatic Radiator Valves (TRVs)
You will probably be aware, that in most modern homes, you can increase or decrease the warmth of a room by adjusting the TRV attached to the side of your radiator.
You will notice different numbered heat settings, popularly ranging from low (0) to high (5). There is also a frost setting indicated by an asterisk (*). Concealed within the head of the TRV is an air temperature sensor and each heat setting position on the valve corresponds to an approximate temperature setting as calibrated by the manufacturer.
As a rough guide, each numbered setting increases or decreases the temperature by 4°C. So if you turn the valve to setting number 3, you could expect a room temperature of about 20°C. Turning it up to number 4, should therefore increase the temperature to 24°C.
Be mindful, that factors such as draughts, direct sunlight or even by obstructions such as curtains can fool the valve’s temperature sensor into thinking the room is warmer or colder than it is.
TRVs are not generally attached to radiators in all rooms. In fact, the advice given by heating engineers is that a TRV should not be fitted to a radiator if it is located in the same room as the room thermostat and should also not be fitted to a radiator in a bathroom.
Explanations are given below:
Why a radiator with TRV shouldn’t be fitted in the same room as a room thermostat
If for example, the TRV in your living room was set to 3 (and this was equivalent to 20°C), then under normal circumstances, as soon as the temperature hit 20°C, your TRV would turn your radiator off. This saves energy as your boiler will not need to supply as much hot water to your central heating system.
If however your living room had a room thermostat and it was set to a higher temperature (for example 21°C), then the room temperature will never reach 21°C (because the TRV with the lower temperature is stopping it)) and no signal will be sent to the boiler to switch it off. Your boiler will therefore remain switched on and continue to consume energy, resulting in a higher than necessary bill.
The solution in these circumstances is to fully open your TRV by turning it to its highest setting and keeping it at this setting. In this way there is no conflict, as your room will heat up to the exact temperature you’ve set your room thermostat to.
Why a radiator with TRV shouldn’t be fitted in the bathroom
As the steam from your shower or bath dissipates around your bathroom, it heats up the bathroom causing condensation and your TRV reacting to the higher temperature turns off your radiator. So just when you need the heat to reduce condensation issues and keep your bathroom warm for a while longer, your radiator is providing the opposite.
This is not a major problem, but there is another reason given by heating engineers for having at least one radiator without a TRV. They recommend at least one radiator within your gas central heating system should be fully open. This ensures that in the event that all other radiators are closed, the hot water flow rate is maintained and boiler performance is not detrimentally affected.
If TRVs are fitted to all radiators, it is likely that an automatic bypass valve has been fitted. This allows a constant flow rate, no matter how many TRVs are open or closed. This ensures that an even system pressure is maintained and helps improve boiler performance.
Now that to some extent we’ve covered the main controls, we’ll take a look at the heart of the system which is the boiler.
Domestic Gas Boiler
All domestic gas boilers work on the principle of burning gas to heat up water which is then pumped through the radiators in your home before returning back to the boiler. However, boilers cannot capture all of the energy as some of the hot gasses are lost to the outside.
Depending on the efficiency of your boiler and how it is set up will determine how much you can save in energy and importantly reduce your gas bill.
All new boilers come with an energy rating of which the maximum is A. With an A rated boiler (90%+ energy efficiency) most of the energy can be used to heat the water for your central heating system rather than being lost or wasted to the outside.
For example, if a boiler has an energy efficiency of 95%, then 95% of the energy used by the boiler heats up the water, whilst the remaining 5% is effectively lost.
If a boiler has an energy efficiency of 60% (such as an old non-condensing boiler), then 60% of the energy used by the boiler heats up the water, whilst the remaining 40% is effectively lost.
Nowadays most modern central heating boilers are of the combi condensing boiler type, and this is what we are going to concentrate on as substantial cash and energy savings are possible.
Combi Condensing Boiler
Combi Condensing Boilers are designed to heat not only your home, but also supply hot water for your daily needs such as washing up or having a bath. There is no need for a separate hot water tank and when set up correctly, combi condensing boilers will capture most of the energy that otherwise will be lost or wasted to the outside.
There are likely to be two main controls:
♦ Boiler Flow Temperature Setting
The main heating control is used to set the flow temperature of the water that passes through your boiler, and as mentioned a little earlier it will then be pumped through to the radiators and subsequently returned back to the boiler where the process starts again.
The factory default flow temperature (outgoing temperature) setting can be as high as 80°C, whilst the water returning to the boiler is usually set to be 20°C lower (60°C in this instance). This means that 20°C can be given out as heat to your home via the radiators.
At the flow temperature quoted above, your radiators will heat up quickly, but the downside is that more energy will be used over a given period of time which leads to higher bills.
For condensing boilers, the lower the flow and return temperatures of the system, the greater will be the energy savings and assuming the unit price of gas doesn’t increase, your gas bill should be lower.
In fact condensing boilers won’t run in condensing mode (to start taking advantage of reasonable money and energy savings) unless the return water temperature to the boiler is below 55°C. An added benefit is that at lower flow temperatures there is less stress on your boiler and this should increase the boiler’s lifespan. Read the ‘heatgeek’ article for an explanation of the many benefits of a low temperature heating system.
It is unlikely that you will be aware whether your boiler has been set up to run at the default factory setting or the most energy efficient setting. The recommended flow temperature will be different for each home and will be dependent on the daily outside temperature, how well insulated your home is and even the size of your radiators.
Potential savings can be seen in the table below. The tests were conducted by Salford University at their Energy House on behalf of Nesta (National Endowment for the Science, Technology and the Arts) a registered charity in England.
A consequence of reducing the flow temperature is that the radiators will not feel as warm as before and your home will take a little longer to heat up. Experiments at the Salford Energy House suggest that the increase in warm up time after reducing flow temperatures from 80C to 60C is between 10-20 minutes.
To maintain your previous comfort level, then by all means program your heating to come on a little earlier but be aware that your savings will not be as good as they could be.
Note: Many householders will be tempted to increase the setting of the TRVs. Doing this will also reduce the potential cash and energy savings and can even increase the gas usage in comparison to before.
You may need to experiment a little before finding the ideal flow temperature. The general suggestion is that you reduce flow temperature in increments of 5°C and assess how comfortable you feel. Keep your program times and TRV settings the same as before, but be aware that if the flow temperature is set too low, the rooms in your home may never reach the temperature that you desire.
Additionally, regular adjustments to the flow temperature are advisable when the outside temperature is forecast to sharply increase or decrease.
With help using the “heatinghub” and “Nesta”, you may be able to make the adjustments yourself. And of course, your gas boiler instruction manual should also give details.
Alternately and assuming you have your boiler serviced annually, you can ask the heating engineer to show you how to change the settings. It may also be possible that the engineer (at a cost) can fit a weather compensator or load compensator device that automatically adjusts the flow temperature.
The “heatgeek guide” gives a good explanation of how a weather compensator or load compensator works and puts forward a few pros and cons for each.
Nesta’s commissioned tests at the Salford Energy House suggest a 4% saving with an installed Weather Compensator and 2.5% with the installation of a Load Compensator.
♦ Hot Water Controls
Hot Water Outlets
The main control is used to set the temperature of the water supplied to your hot water outlets such as in the kitchen and bathroom and will also include your shower if it is not electric. The default factory setting for the water to be heated is likely to be 50 or 60°C.
At these temperatures there is a risk of scalding and although the temperature will have reduced a little by the time it reaches your hot water outlets, you may need to mix the hot water with cold water before it can be safely used.
It’s worth noting that the HSE (Government Health and Safety Executive) state that the temperature should not exceed 44°C* to avoid scalding. Consider setting your hot water control to 44°C* or a bit lower. The scalding risk is virtually eliminated and you will also reduce your gas bill.
Nesta commissioned research suggests that a typical household would make an annual saving of £26, which equates to about 2% off their gas bill.
The adjustments to change the hot water temperature on your boiler should be reasonably simple and instructions can usually be found in the manual supplied with the boiler.
Alternatively look online for video instructions or wait for your heating engineer to carry out his annual service and ask him to show you how to make the adjustments yourself.
The Groundwork video shows how simple the hot water controls are on some boilers.
* Legionella
Although the scalding risk at 44°C or lower is virtually eliminated, you should be aware of the risks of legionella, a bacteria found in not only natural water sources, but also water systems such as in the workplace or home.
Under certain conditions the bacteria can grow and will increase the risk of catching legionnaire’s disease and other perhaps less serious infections such as Pontiac fever.
Stagnant water is the main risk of legionella bacteria spreading, whilst vulnerable people are most at risk of catching it. It can be caught through contaminated water droplets or through drinking water if it gets through to the lungs.
The general recommendation is that stored hot water (such as boilers with a separate hot water tank) should be heated to 60°C, as this will kill legionella bacteria within a couple of minutes.
Combi boilers heat water on demand and as under normal circumstances water is used regularly throughout the day the risk legionella is considered minimal.
Households with a combi boiler and vulnerable family members may wish to heat the water to 50°C as any legionella present in the water supply will not grow.
After returning home after a stay away such as a holiday, visiting friends or relatives you may want to flush out your water system and heat up your water to 60°C. As mentioned a little earlier, any lingering legionella will be killed off within minutes.
Hot Water Preheat
Many modern boilers have what is called a Hot Water Preheat function and this would have probably been switched to the on position when the boiler was installed. The benefit to you is that in comparison to a boiler with no Preheat function, the time taken for heated water to reach any of your hot water outlets will be greatly reduced.
However, to do this, your boiler will need to ‘fire up’ at regular intervals to maintain the heat of the hot water. As to be expected, extra gas is used and according to a ‘heatinghub’ article, around 500 to 750kwh of energy may be used by some households. With the October gas priced capped at 10.3p per kwh, your gas bill could be up to £77 more than necessary.
For most but not all boilers the preheat function can be switched on and off. There may also be an option to program the times that the preheat switches on and off. This is useful if you are out at work or away from your home for regular periods during the day. When switched off you will substantially reduce your energy use and therefore you gas bill.
The heatinghub article article has links on how to switch off the preheat function on various makes of boiler.
If after turning off the preheat function you find that there is too much of a delay before the hot water reaches your taps, then rather than turn the preheat function back on, it may be worthwhile investing in a Combisave Valve device.
The device effectively restricts the amount of water supplied to your hot water taps until the water is hot enough. This will save gas and water and will not only reduce your gas bill but also your water bill if you are on a water meter. Savings can therefore work out to be slightly more than just turning off your preheat function. There is of course the cost of the Combisave Valve device and its installation to consider.
Anything Else
With approximately 60% of homes in the UK living in hard water areas and without some sort of water treatment device, there will be what is called limescale build up. It can be seen as chalky white deposits on taps and shower heads. What you won’t notice is the build-up within hot pipes, radiators, water heaters and boilers.
Not only does limescale reduce the lifespan of water heaters and boilers, it also increases the time to heat up your water for washing up, bathing and showering and heating up your home. This increases energy usage and therefore costs you more.
What’s more, the lifespan of water using appliances such as washing machines, dishwashers and kettles can also be reduced.
To combat these effects, new homes have to have some kind of water softening system installed. It is advisable for older homes to also fit a similar system or at least a water softening device. There are many options.
However, before thinking about how to deal with what you feel is a limescale problem, check out the water hardness in your area by contacting your water utility company.
Alternatively if you want to find out right now, just type in your postcode as prompted in the explanation about water hardness article by Kinetico Water Systems.
If you do live in a hard water supply area, you may want to read the following relevant articles about limescale, whole house water filters, water softeners and also a reasonably priced water conditioning device:
1. Removing limescale can save you money – ‘savewatersavemoney’
2. Water softening, water conditioning and more – UKWTA
3. Guide to whole house water filtration systems – Water Filter Shop
4. An alternative to an expensive water softener – Scalewatcher Water Conditioner
SECTION 3 Lighting
Up until LED light bulbs became available, most householders spent between 15 and 20% of their total energy costs on lighting.
In theory, as old inefficient light bulbs are replaced with their LED equivalents, the amount spent on such energy should naturally reduce.
In the meantime, it is a useful exercise to go through each room and note the wattage for each bulb. You may be surprised at how many old incandescent, halogen and fluorescent bulbs are still being used.
The newer energy efficient fluorescent bulbs (usually ranging from 9 to 13 Watts) may as well be kept. Any other higher wattage bulbs used for substantial periods of time should be replaced sooner than later. If replacing fluorescent bulbs, then remember to take them to your recycling centre for safe disposal – they contain hazardous substances. Incandescent, halogen and LED bulbs can be disposed of in your general household waste bin.
If you have the time and would like to compare the cost of using different energy rated bulbs you can use the sust-it lighting energy calculator
As can be seen, LED lighting is generally much cheaper to run in comparison with other bulb types.
However, in some instances where LED traditional lighting has been replaced with downlighters, the energy cost can be higher.
This is because the lighting layout of most rooms will have been altered to house more bulbs, which in turn has increased the energy use.
For example, if we take a medium size living room that has two ceiling bulbs, the traditional choice might be two x 7.5Watt bulbs (60W old style each incandescent bulb equivalent). With a new downlighter layout, you may need eight 5W downlighters (each bulb 50W equivalent).
So every time our downlighters are switched on, 40Watt of electricity is used, whilst our LED traditional set up of two LED bulbs uses 15 watts. Okay the energy and cost savings don’t amount to much, but they are still savings and it all mounts up.
In both instances, the LED setups are much cheaper than incandescent or halogen.
Many will ask why advise a set-up of eight downlighters. The main reason is that as downlighters tend to be recessed, they reflect some of their light back into their fitting and are therefore are not as bright as the same equivalent wattage ceiling light.
It’s also partly down to aesthetics; style gurus tend to reckon on so many per sized room, with a reasonable amount of space between each one.
Dimmable bulbs are also an option and can help save energy; however, you may have issues and this article by Regency Lighting explains why.
As an alternative to switching on all your lights in a particular room, it is worth considering purpose built lamps for reading, working at home or even atmospheric type lighting. Energy costs should be reduced, but accept that the environmental costs of producing the lamp in the first place may outweigh the savings.
Anything Else
When replacing lightbulbs you should be aware that there can be a big difference in the quality of LED lighting with regard to the light they throw and also the lifespan of the bulbs. It’s worth checking out the regular reviews in “Which Magazine” to find out which bulbs are recommended as a good buy.
Also be aware that any lights housed within the ceiling, and even your wall, are a potential area for draughts. This is particularly so for downlighters recessed within the ceiling, and fire rated thermal covers should be considered for upstairs rooms.
One final point, try and remember to turn your lights off when they are not required.
SECTION 4 Insulation and Draughts
One way or another, any heat in your home will escape. Most of this is likely to be through your walls and roof, but substantial losses can be expected through your doors, windows and floor. Where insulation can be improved, the demand for heating will be reduced, saving both cash and energy.
We should also consider that cracks and holes also allow heat to escape and often cause imperceptible draughts, which nonetheless can make us feel colder than expected for a given temperature. Some figures suggest that draughts can be the cause of heat loss of up to 25% in a home. Chris Goodall’s blog about reducing draughts in the home is worth a read.
Grants and subsidies are often possible for draught proofing and some home insulation measures. Up-to-date information should be available from your energy supplier, local council (Salford in our case), or a reputable energy advisor.
Where to Insulate:
♦ Radiators
If any of your radiators are located on a wall facing the outside, do you have reflector foil to reduce heat loss?
Independent tests (undertaken on behalf of reflector foil manufacturer Radflek) have shown that by installing their reflector foil behind a radiator, energy savings from radiator heat loss through the walls is about 45%.
Payback should be less than a year for fitting reflector foil behind a radiator in your living room.
♦ Hot Water Pipes
Are pipes to and from the radiators and hot water tank (if applicable) insulated? If not these can be insulated quite cheaply and will help ensure that it is the room of your choice that is heating up, rather than it being wasted elsewhere. If accessible, ensure that pipes behind walls and below floors or above ceilings are also insulated.
Also if accessible, insulate the pipes to your bath, shower and hot water taps. You won’t have to wait so long for warm water, and this will result in both energy and water savings.
♦ Unused Chimney
If you have an unused chimney, a chimney balloon or equivalent is recommended to stop heat being wasted. Draughts will also be reduced.
Check out the manufacturer’s links below:
1. A chimney draught excluder made using Herdwick Sheep wool
2. An inflatable chimney draught excluder
♦ Windows
Secondary, Double or Triple Glazed Windows together with either insulated curtains, blinds or shutters can provide window heat loss savings from about 15 to more than 50%. Pelmets also help.
If you have single glazing, consider secondary glaze as a good budget option. DIY options are well within the scope of a competent handyperson.
Double or triple glazed windows are likely to offer increased insulation compared to secondary glazing, but the payback in energy savings can be 20 years or more. Windows and doors have different energy efficiencies and will be labelled from A++ to E (similar to appliance ratings) if they have been verified for their efficiency by the British Fenestration Ratings Council (BRFC).
Many people forget that well fitted thermal curtains, blinds and shutters also offer insulation properties. Sadly, there doesn’t appear to be an independent* energy ratings verification scheme to indicate the thermal efficiency of the various fabrics used for window furnishing.
However, there are several articles that show energy savings can definitely be made. We particularly like the Windows and Heat Loss article by Brian Clark of the Building Conservation team.
*The only rating scheme we have come across is for blinds only, and as very few retailers mention the scheme, it is likely done to a specification set up by a manufacturer. Savings of up to 15% are claimed and the Broadview Luxury Shadings Solutions article gives details of the classification scheme.
Last but not least, a Pelmet should also be considered as they can reduce the flow of warm air to behind the curtain and through the window.
♦ Lofts
It’s here that care must be taken. Not only is there danger walking between the ceiling joists, there may also be asbestos as it was often used as insulation in older properties. Asbestos can also be found under floors, cavity walls and as part of textured coatings such as some Artex ceilings. If in doubt, contact a specialist. Below is a link to one located in our area, Salford:
Northwest Asbestos Removals Ltd
Assuming that the loft is easily accessible and you have protective gear such as a facemask and overalls, there are a number of checks that can be made. These include the height of the insulation, whether it is evenly spread with no obvious gaps and that the insulation is not covering any soffit ventilation holes, as this is will hinder the breathability of your home.
The recommended height for loft insulation is 270mm and is actually a legal requirement for new builds. Retrofit builders often recommend up to 400mm, but this will come at a price with little additional energy or monetary savings. The height recommendation is based on glass or mineral fibre rolls. There is better insulation (generally more costly) out there and this could be used if you intend to make use of the loft space for storage, as you will not need the same 270mm height.
Don’t forget, the loft hatch also needs to be insulated and should be airtight when closed. Significant heat losses and condensation can occur and this is best explained in the installing airtight insulated attic hatches article by the Green Building Store Company.
A final check is to note whether any recessed downlights have thermal covers. If not, look to buy a fire rated downlight loft cone similar to that sold at Astroflame.
Draughts:
As we’ve mentioned before, draughts are often imperceptible and can be difficult to locate. Draughts are in effect uncontrolled ventilation and allow air and moisture to find its way through cracks, holes and gaps, both inside and outside the home.
In the same way that air and moisture finds its way in, heat is lost more quickly to the outside. The combination of draughts and heat loss through gaps has been estimated to be as much as 25%
An indication of possible draughts is If you feel cold after turning up the heating to somewhere between the recommended 18 to 21°C. In the colder months, draughts together with high moisture levels make you feel colder at higher temperatures in the same way that the sun shining at lower temperatures can make you feel warmer than you would expect.
To reduce draughts, we need to seal up every crack, hole and gap that we can find. Finding the source of the draughts can be difficult, but using a smoke stick or even a candle may help.
There are certain areas in the home where draughts are more likely to occur and these are detailed below:
♦ Plumbing Gaps
Wherever there is any plumbing involved, there may be some kind of gap between the pipes and wall. Besides causing draughts, gaps can also make it easier for fires to spread and are a potential source for pests.
It therefore makes sense to seal these gaps, so if you can, check under your bath and behind the toilet. The kitchen is usually the other main area for plumbing gaps. If the gaps are large, roughly shape out a solid board (preferably insulated) and finish off with fireproof sealant.
♦ Window Frames
Check that your window frames are sealed properly. Old single glazed windows and sash windows can be a particular problem. ‘How to seal’ tutorials are shown on many websites, but the type of seal required will depend on the gap and type of window.
♦ Floorboards
Up to 15% of your heating can be lost through the floor, so sealing any gaps in floorboards will help. For those with patience and time on your hands, you can try inserting wood slivers as available from Period Projects.
If that method seems time consuming then the floorboard gap filler by Draughtex might be the answer. Another recommended product can be seen here:
Don’t forget that your floorboards will run under your skirting board and there may well be cracks between the skirting boards and the wall. Using decorators caulk seems like it will do the job and Nemesis Mighty Decorators Caulk gets lots of thumbs up from the trade.
If you intend to carry out a major refurbishment of your home, then insulation under the floorboards or rigid insulation for solid floors would be the best way of reducing heat loss through the floor. This is usually not a job that you can carry out without professional help.
♦ Doors
Old doors or badly fitted doors are often a source of draughts. A joiner will be required for those of us without good DIY skills, but for simple draught proofing there are many types that fit underneath and around doors, letter boxes and even keyholes.
For additional insulation, consider a curtain for your door. This can be attached to a traditional portiere.
♦ Light Switch Fittings, Recessed Lighting etc
Light switch fittings, recessed lighting, plug sockets and phones are all areas where draughts are possible. Working near electrics has safety implications and so it is advisable to employ a professional with electrical qualifications. If, however, you are confident that you can carry out the draught sealing yourself, then check out the ‘how to do’ articles and a fire rated foam sealer:
1. How to insulate electrical points with gaps – The Spruce Website
2. How to insulate around recessed lights – Real Gospodar Website
3. A 5 hour rated foam sealer – Geocel Company
SECTION 5 Water Management
When looking at our impact on the environment and also saving money, water management is often overlooked. In many regions it is a scare resource and the management of water is increasingly a cause for concern in areas where floods are becoming more common and our native wildlife is struggling to survive.
Before water reaches our homes it has been pumped through many pipes and processed at a treatment plant to make it safe to drink. Our wastewater also has to be treated before being discharged into the rivers and sea, and this whole process is quite energy intensive with the result that the average family creates 1.5 tonnes of water related greenhouse gases each year
To reflect the cost of having clean water and its treatment thereafter, we pay for this through our water bill.
Many homes have metered bills and so this is calculated on exactly what we use whilst taking into account wastewater and sewerage costs. It is usually cheaper for single people, couples, and sometimes small families to be on the metered billing system, but perhaps not for families or high water users.
For those of us that receive unmetered bills it is possible to have a meter installed, and using a calculator found on your water utilities website, you can work out if this will save you money.
Whether our water is metered or unmetered, and to help protect the environment, we should all try to cut down on what we use.
We also need to know that when we use water, it is often heated and therefore by learning how to use our water wisely we can reduce our energy bill. Examples include washing dishes or clothes, taking showers or baths, and of course having a cup of tea or coffee.
So now we have decided to reduce our water usage, the next step is to work out how. A good start is to look in the rooms where water has the biggest footprint.
The Kitchen:
♦ Kitchen Sink Taps
First of all, check your kitchen tap. Older taps flow at about 10 litres per minute, whilst a modern tap will flow at about 6 litres per minute. Easy to fit 5 litre per minute tap aerators are often available at no or little charge from your water utility company.
♦ Washing Machine and Dishwasher
As most of us are aware, the most efficient way to use a washing machine or dishwasher is to ensure it is full before using it. Low temperature washing with an appropriate detergent can often be used for lightly or normally soiled laundry and will save additional energy and money.
If you have to buy a new washing machine or dishwasher, choose an energy efficient reliable model with as low water consumption as possible. Energy labels displayed on the appliance should provide most of this information. Online reviews are often useful (be careful of false reviews) for checking out reliability issues. ‘Which’ magazine, also carries out independent research on many products, whilst also having an online presence.
It also pays to be mindful that each washing cycle uses varying amounts of energy and water consumption. For example, one washing machine guide book we read through, informed us that a 2kg ‘delicate’ wash consumed 0.38kwh of energy and used 69 litres of water, whilst a 2kg ‘woollen’ wash consumed 0.23kwh of energy and used 39 litres of water.
So if we have the confidence to experiment and wash more of our ‘delicates’ in the wool wash, then over time we will save money and energy. In addition, it has been found that a ‘delicate’ wash releases more plastic compared to wash cycles that use less water. It also has to be said that laundry detergents vary in their effectiveness for different temperature washes. Sometimes it’s difficult to know what to do.
For information on research that has gone into washing machine cycles and plastic fibres, check out the Guardian Newspaper article.
♦ Pots, Pans and Kettles
More water and energy can be saved by not overfilling pots and pans when cooking, whilst overfilling kettles can add an extra 3.2% to our electric bills.
If you only need a cuppa, don’t overfill your kettle
If you do overfill your kettle, then use the excess water to either wash the odd bits of cutlery or crockery lying about or perhaps clean your worktop and cooker.
Excess water from pots and pans can be saved as stock for future meals or making gravy.
Bathroom:
♦ Electric Shower
By cutting down on how long is spent in the shower, many householders will not only reduce their water usage, but also make substantial savings on their electric bill. Householders with a water meter will save even more.
Electric showers tend to be powered from 7.5kw to 10.5kw. As an example, we’ll compare the running costs of a 7.5kw and 10.5kw powered shower over different time periods:
The calculation is based on the revised Ofgem energy priced capped tariff of 27p per KWh that came into effect on the 1st October 2023. The capped tariff set by Ofgem assumes that you pay by Direct Debit and that you are on a standard variable tariff.
If you are not on a standard variable tariff (Fixed or Economy 7 for example) and/or paying on receipt of a bill and/or on a prepayment meter, the energy capped tariff will be different.
Use the sust-it energy calculator to work out a more accurate cost of your shower.
Note 1: 1000 watts = 1 kilowatt
Note 2: The average person in the UK spends about 8 minutes in the shower
♦ Shower Head Flow Rates and Shower Times
No matter what type of shower you have, if you are on a water meter, your water utility bill will be affected. As an example, we’ll compare how different shower head flow rates and time spent in the shower increase the annual costs to your water utility bill:
The cost calculation is based on having a water meter and being supplied by United Utilities. Household charges for the year 2023-2024 currently stand at £1.988 per 1000 litres of water.
Note: Shower Water Flow rates tend to vary from 4.5 litres per minute to 15 litres per minute.
As you can see from the examples given above, a household with a power shower and water meter could end up spending a small fortune. It may even be cheaper to run a bath!
Therefore the principle of spending as little time as possible in the shower and using eco modes will help save energy and cash no matter what type of shower you have.
♦ Bath
The average person (in the UK) fills a bath with 80 litres of water. On the assumption that one person has one bath each day, then over a year that equates to 29200 litres. With a Water Meter cost of £1.988 per 1000 litres, the total cost would be £58.05 per year!
There’s also the cost to heating the water for your bath. This will vary tremendously and depends on how your water is heated. For example, does the water come from a gas combi boiler or an electric immersion heater?
If it comes from an immersion heater, what is the size, how long is it on for and if your tariff includes a cheaper economy 7 tariff is the water heating up during the cheaper period?
However you heat your water, the cost of a full bath each day for a year is likely to range from a £100 to a few hundred pounds.
You can see how savings can easily be made by just having a shallow bath or as an alternative, consider the addition of a simple bath tap shower attachment.
♦ Bathroom Sink Taps
As with kitchen taps it’s possible that the flow rate of an older tap will be high and around the 10 litres per minute mark, whilst modern taps will flow at about 4 to 8 litres per minute. Easy-to-fit 5 litres per minute tap aerators are often available at little or no cost from your water utility company.
If you want to measure the flow rates of your taps or shower heads, then a cheap option is to buy what’s called a Flow Bag.
The flow rate can be calculated for free if you have a measuring jug and stop watch.
♦ Toilet
Older toilets flush away up to about 12 litres of water. Modern water saving dual flush ones range from 2.5 to 5 litres and 3 to 6 litres, which shows the potential for savings.
Although dual flush toilets are great for saving water, you need to be on the lookout for leaks due to poorly designed valves and lime scale or grit interfering with the flushing mechanism. Before making a purchase it would be wise to read as many reviews as possible, paying particular regard to checking long term reliability.
The non-profit water efficiency organisation ‘Waterwise’ has an excellent downloadable tip sheet that will benefit anyone considering buying a dual flush toilet. It also gives an explanation on the most common failings of dual flush toilets and this may be useful in working out where a leak has originated from.
If you still have one of the older toilet cisterns with the front mounted levers, you may be able to install a device that should substantially reduce the water used when flushing the toilet. At the time of updating this guide, the two products (variflush and interflush) that were originally used to highlight as being worth checking out are not currently available. No doubt they will return in some other form and it’s worth checking the internet for other alternatives.
In the meanwhile, a ‘Save a Flush’ type device that sits in the older type cisterns may save a little water. These products and other water saving products are often free from your local water utilities company. The water for our area (Salford) is supplied by United Utilities, and it’s worth contacting them to find out what free products and special offers are currently available.
Anything Else
About 60% of homes in the UK live in hard water areas and this causes what is called limescale build up. The base of your kettle will look a little furry, whilst chalky white deposits will be seen on taps or shower heads. Many people are unaware that limescale also reduces the efficiency and lifespan of appliances and boilers. Your energy usage will increase and so will your bill.
To combat these effects, new homes have to have some kind of water softening system or conditioning device installed. It is advisable for older homes to also fit something similar. There are many options.
If you do live in a hard water supply area, you may want to read the following relevant articles about limescale, whole house water filters, water softeners and also a reasonably priced water conditioning device:
1. Removing limescale can save you money – ‘savewatersavemoney’
2. Water softening, water conditioning and more – UKWTA
3. Guide to whole house water filtration systems – Water Filter Shop
4. An alternative to an expensive water softener – Scalewatcher Water Conditioner
SECTION 6 Air Quality and Ventilation
If we’re ever asked as to what makes a comfy home, our first thoughts are that it should be warm in winter and cool in summer. We want it to nice and clean, light and airy and probably located somewhere with a bit of peace and quiet. Our thoughts don’t tend to include air quality and the possible effect on our lives.
It’s not something that we actively measure. We may wonder why we often wake up coughing and sneezing after a night’s sleep, but we probably aren’t too concerned. Any signs of mould are just accepted and met with a quick clean, headaches are solved with tablets and tiredness is put down to modern day life.
No link is made to the possibility that the air quality may be partially to blame. We’re also unlikely to know or ignore the fact that there is often a connection between the physical condition of our home, the quality of air and our general health. Sorting out the air quality will go a long way to improving our short and long term health. It will also improve our comfort levels and help reduce the energy and maintenance costs of our home.
Unless we can afford to hire someone to carry out a home air quality survey, we will need to make some assumptions. Visual and sensory signs can be used as indicators of possible poor air quality. Other signs are often invisible or require use of monitors. Carry out your own mini audit using the basic information below.
Part 1 – Air Quality Indicators
♦ Uncontrolled Ventilation
By just opening and closing windows to manage draughts and comfort levels, then you have in effect uncontrolled ventilation.
In the warmer summer months with sufficient air movement this may be acceptable, as excess moisture, dust, odours and toxins are likely to be reduced and any draughts may provide a cooling effect. There will however be an increase in the pollen levels and this can cause problems for many people. And even disregarding the pollen, there is no guarantee of the purity of incoming air.
In the cooler damp months, warm inside air will be replaced by colder air and the high humidity is likely to cause problems. We can increase the temperature to reduce the relative humidity, but we’re wasting money and energy if any windows are still left open.
We should also be mindful that dust and toxins are produced all the time; a lot of which will originate from the outside, whether it is through the windows or attached to our shoes, clothes and even our shopping.
Poor air circulation also has an effect and some rooms may still hold too much moisture, even if the rest of the house is dry. Mould only needs a few days to grow and take hold.
In a nutshell the ability to control ventilation will make it easier to improve our air quality.
♦ Humidity
Humidity is the amount of moisture in the air. The higher the temperature, the more it can hold.
Too much or too little moisture can affect our health, and damage not only household possessions but also the fabric of the building. The problem is that we can’t see it and this makes it unlikely we will do anything about it until we notice something like mould or damp patches.
It therefore helps to measure the humidity in our home. To do this, we use an inexpensive instrument called a hygrometer or humidity meter. It measures what is called the relative humidity (RH) and the readings can inform us of the potential harm to our health and the likelihood of damage to our possessions and home.
If there was no moisture, the meter would read 0% Relative Humidity (RH) whilst a 100% RH reading would tell us that the air is completely saturated with water. If this saturated air were to come into contact with a cooler surface (such as a window), condensation would occur.
Ideally, you want your home to have about 50% RH but anything between 40 and 60% RH is fine.
Low Relative Humidity (below 40%) is rare in the UK but can be seen in some homes where the central heating is set too high. Symptoms include a dry throat and nose; itchiness and dehydration.
Unfortunately, partly because of our lifestyle (cooking, taking baths, showers and drying clothes) and the UK’s damp climate, many homes will have a high relative humidity (above 60%). In summer, it can make you feel warmer than it is, while the opposite holds true for winter.
Why do we sometimes feel hotter or colder than what the thermostat says it is?
Often, many of us report that a temperature of, for example, 18 °C in winter feels colder than the same temperature in summer. One reason is that in winter we don’t feel the full benefit of radiant heat from the sun.
In summer, the sun shines for longer, is warmer for longer and gradually heats the whole mass of our home, including the contents. Long after sunset we will continue to feel warm from the heat that radiates (radiant heat) out from the walls, floors, ceiling and everything else. For example, the thermometer might tell us that the temperature is 18°C at midnight but we feel warmer. This is because the thermostat can measure air temperature but not radiant heat.
In winter, we don’t have much radiant heat. Walls and floors, etc., are likely to be cool or cold and will, in fact, be drawing heat from our bodies. There may also be imperceptible cold draughts contributing to a cooling effect. The thermostat reading may again show 18°C at midnight but we will definitely feel colder.
To better understand the effect of radiated heat, go outside on a cold windless sunny day. Out in the open, with the sun shining on us, we can feel quite warm. As soon as we step into the shade or the sun goes in we feel as though the temperature has suddenly dropped. It is the sun’s infrared rays that have warmed us up, rather than the air.
When the RH is above 60%, and in particular over 70%, dust mites and mould spores thrive whilst toxin (Volatile Organic Compounds) emissions tend to increase with a higher RH.
Homes with prolonged periods of high RH pose a health risk to residents and even more so for anyone with existing health problems such as asthma.
We mentioned earlier that too much moisture can damage our household possessions and fabric of the building. To understand why, you just need to keep in mind that moisture will always move to a dryer area. Anything that can absorb moisture is susceptible. Examples include books, clothes, furniture, wallpaper and plaster. This may prove costly in the long term.
All the issues mentioned above will be reduced if we take steps to reduce the relative humidity. How to reduce moisture and relative humidity will be discussed a bit later on.
♦ Condensation
Condensation briefly mentioned above is attributable to high RH and is easily noticeable on windows but not so much on anything else.
As an example, think about when you wake up on a cold morning and notice condensation on your bedroom window. This is probably due to the fact that, during the night, the RH will have increased to the point where the air in your bedroom is nearing saturation point (RH 100%). The increased moisture and therefore higher RH has been caused primarily by your perspiration and breathing during sleep.
As we know, a higher temperature will hold more moisture than a lower temperature. The temperature of your window will naturally be colder than the average temperature of your bedroom. This means that the colder air next to and touching the window will not be able hold as much moisture as the warmer air elsewhere in the bedroom.
The temperature of the colder surface (your window) will determine whether condensation will occur. This temperature is called the dew point. In our example, the window was cold enough that as soon as the warmer air from your bedroom touched the surface of the window, it condensed into water.
Everyday activities such as taking baths & showers; cooking, drying laundry and even basic exercise will likewise produce moisture that can lead to condensation. This often goes unnoticed as it can be quickly absorbed into its surroundings such as external walls.
It is possible to predict when condensation is likely to appear or already present by using a moderately-priced thermal condensation scanner. Features may include a dew point reading that tells you at what temperature the air moisture will turn into water whilst a laser pointer will measure the temperature of any section of the wall you wish to check out. A wall temperature reading close to the dew point reading suggests a risk of condensation.
Condensation occurring regularly is something that you should be concerned with as the chances of damp taking hold are increased. Damp goes often undetected and your first warning of a problem may be a musty odour, wallpaper stains or traces of mould.
♦ Temperature
Probably most of us don’t fully understand the role that temperature plays in our home’s air quality.
In the Humidity and Condensation sections, we learnt about the relationship between moisture and temperature. We know, for example, that during the cooler months, the air cannot hold as much moisture compared to warmer days and the effect of this may be seen as condensation on walls, ceilings or windows.
If no preventative action is taken, mould and damp patches are likely to occur over the medium to long term. As you may already know, mould and the spores produced from mould, may be harmful to some people.
Naturally enough, when our home feels cold and damp, we will switch on the central heating. The higher temperature will lower the relative humidity and reduce the chances of damp and mould taking hold of our home.
If, however, our central heating is left on at a high temperature for long periods, the air can become too dry; and for anyone with respiratory problems, these can be worsened and you may lose the body’s natural protection from bacteria and viruses. As mentioned in the humidity section, symptoms of dry air (low relative humidity) include a dry throat and nose, itchiness and dehydration.
Whilst these symptoms may not seem like a serious cause for alarm, with time, exposure to low humidity levels may dry and inflame the mucus membrane lining inside your respiratory tract. As a consequence, your body becomes more vulnerable to catching colds, flu, and other infections. Dry air also aids the survival of harmful viruses.
In the summer months, a combination of warm temperatures and high relative humidity will likely increase the rate of VOC (chemical) emissions that are emitted from almost every item in the home. This will include wooden furniture, textiles, paints and plastic items. As with mould toxins and spores, VOCs are detrimental to many people’s health. Good ventilation will help.
Working out the effect of different temperatures on air quality within the home can be difficult. This means that we also have to take into account other air quality indicators; only then will we be able to come up with solutions that help us live in a more healthy and comfortable home.
♦ Mould
Moulds produce toxins that in some people can cause allergic reactions (particularly from mould spores), respiratory problems and even internal damage to your kidney and liver for example. Similar damage can also result from bacteria and viruses found in homes with high humidity and damp conditions.
Aside from damaging your health, you should be aware that if no action is taken to get rid of the mould, the fabric and even building materials within your home will deteriorate. The repair costs may prove expensive in the long run.
By controlling the amount of moisture and relative humidity, you can make your home a healthier and more comfortable place to live in. You will also find that maintenance and energy costs are reduced.
♦ Damp
Damp is an indicator that condensation, moisture, or water is present in your home. If it doesn’t dry out within a short period of time, structural damage is possible and your health could be at risk.
Aside from the everyday activities mentioned elsewhere in this section, there are many reasons why damp may be present within your home. Often it is a combination of factors that are causing the damp.
To help you identify the factors that may lead to damp, the examples below are those that we have come across following our home visits and also in our research before writing this section:
- Inadequate ventilation within the house and/or the cellar/the sub floor
- Existing ventilation insufficient after taking Insulation and/or draught proofing measures
- Non breathable renders, plaster, paint and wall paper
- Garden/adjoining properties on higher level than your home
- Leaky gutters and drainpipes
- Inappropriate or wrong type of pointing
- Extractor fans/trickle vents/air bricks – not serviced, blocked, closed
- Vegetation growing next to or near one of the walls
- Unvented closed off chimneys
- Furniture too close to walls creating stagnant air conditions leading to localised damp areas
- Moisture produced from burning gas fires and cookers
- Incorrect cabling for satellite dishes etc. has allowed rain water ingress
- Cavity wall problems – insulation & cavity wall ties defects
- Damp Proof Course failure
- House alterations both inside and out your own property and even work carried out by adjoining neighbours property may have some unforeseen detrimental affect
- Damp Bridging
As you are probably aware, diagnosing the cause of damp is very tricky and unless you are prepared to do lots of research, it’s perhaps best left to experts.
If you think that you have damp issues, then before calling anybody out, read as many damp articles as you can.
To start you off, our recommendation is to check out an article on the different approaches to detect damp and also to this forum contribution by David Aldred a specialist in damp related issues. We also like the knowledge shared in the series of damp related blogs and videos by ‘Complete Preservation’.
If you can find the source of the damp, then great, you may be able to get rid of it with perhaps a few behavioural changes and some minimal cost improvements.
If, however, after making any changes, damp persists, then you will probably require the help of an independent damp specialist.
A list of local practitioners can be found through the Property Care Association (PCA). You can also contact them by telephone on 0844 375 4301. Ask for an independent consultant specialising in damp. Minimum qualifications are CSRT (certified surveyor in remedial treatments) and CSSW (certified surveyor in structural waterproofing).
Alternatively the Royal Institute of Chartered Surveyors (MRICS minimum qualification) also have members that specialise in damp related problems. A practitioner is probably best found by doing an internet search or by contacting the organisation directly.
Note that a certain amount of liability protection is secured when using the services of members of the Property Care Association or Royal Institute of Chartered Surveyors. This is particularly useful as a failed remedy may prove to be expensive to rectify.
♦ Drying Clothes and other fabrics indoors
There are two main reasons why drying clothes, towels and bedding indoors can affect air quality. The first was mentioned above, where we talked about the potential of excess moisture to cause damp and mould and increase the likelihood of toxins being released.
The second is that most washing powders and detergents contain chemicals that are gradually released into your room as your washing dries. So that lovely natural scent you can smell as your laundry dries is likely to affect those with sensitive skin and anyone with an underdeveloped or weakened respiratory system.
There are however, many eco-friendly products that are better for us and also the environment. An understanding of the various environmental labels found on product packaging is useful before making a purchase. As a starting point, the ethics guide from the ethicalsuperstore company explains the various types of labels that may influence what you decide to purchase.
Note: Although a clear explanation is given as to what each label means, it’s as well to recognise that some labels are one’s designated by the store itself and won’t necessarily be shown on the product you wish to purchase.
♦ Ailments including Coughs, Sneezes, and Allergies
Everyone is susceptible to some kind of ailment, but our concern is whether the trigger has originated from within the home.
Our first step is to note down the symptoms such as coughing, sneezing, tiredness, itching, etc. We then need to note when, where and how often the symptoms occur; for example, is it always in the same room or all rooms. Above all, once we leave the home do the symptoms disappear?
Can you think of reasons that may cause the symptoms? For example, have we just vacuumed, hung up clothes to dry or recently cleaned the bathroom?
If we can work out the reason, then we can do something about it. For example, we can buy pillow cases that protect against dust mite allergens or buy cleaning products formulated for sensitive skin.
If the symptoms persist and we are unable to find the cause, then contacting the doctor for treatment and also asking for an allergy test may be worthwhile.
♦ Odours
Odours are one of the easiest ways of letting us know that air quality has been compromised. Smoke from say burnt food is easily understood to be bad for our health and we either rely on an extractor fan or open windows and doors to reduce the effect. Musty smells can be a sign of damp or mould, although the effect to our health is often not understood and action is not always taken.
For ‘fragrant’ scents such as those given off from perfume, air fresheners, washed laundry and personal grooming products, the health risks are usually ignored or are seen to be an acceptable risk for the benefits the scents provide.
We rarely consider the health risks, unless they trigger off some kind of reaction to us personally.
At the very least, we should try to understand the health impacts from the products we use and consider alternatives if available.
♦ Dust
Dust is all around us, but is more likely to be found inside the home rather than outside. Household dust includes a mixture of dirt from outside, pollen, hair, dead skin cells, dust mites and their faeces, fibres from food, paper and textiles. Spores and other toxins will also bind themselves to the dust particles.
As you might expect, dust with all its components can be harmful to health and we should take measures to reduce the effects. Dust or particulate monitors are available, but the more accurate and reliable ones are costly.
The heavier settled dust is easy to spot, and this is quickly dealt with by vacuuming or wiping off with a damp cloth.
Airborne dust particles are difficult to deal with, but there are options and we’ll review those later on.
♦ Household cleaning products, furnishings and everything else
Unfortunately, we have to accept the fact that every item in our home has the potential to harbour toxins.
This is understandable as after being manufactured, the finished product may include glues, solvents, resins, coatings, varnishes and all manner of chemicals. Under certain conditions we can become exposed to these chemicals, which can be toxic in even small doses for many vulnerable people.
Toxins have already been mentioned many times in this guide and probably now is a good time to give a little more information. Other common terms or words mentioned when discussing air quality include chemicals, poisons, pollutants, Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC’s), and Particulate Matter (PM or Particulates).
Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs for short) is perhaps the most commonly used term and stands for a group of chemicals that can evaporate at room temperature. They are found in every home and are inhaled, ingested or absorbed through the skin. They may be natural or synthetic and are released over both short and long periods of time.
Many VOCs are toxic (particularly in the long term) and can contribute to causing asthma, allergies and many other health problems. They are in fact an invisible indicator of poor air quality.
Particulate Matter is the other main term used when discussing air quality and refers to airborne substances that include pollen, fungal spores, dust mites, bacteria, viruses, liquid droplets, fibres and much more. As with VOCs they can be inhaled or ingested, are present in every home and can cause health problems to virtually everyone.
We should also mention Dermal Absorption, a lesser known term that is used to describe chemicals or toxins that can be absorbed through your skin. Examples include personal care products and to a lesser extent carpets and other furnishings. So although Dermal Absorption is not directly related to air quality, it is something to bear in mind when considering your health.
Though it’s impossible to avoid all toxins, poisons, pollutants, VOC’s, Particulate Matter or whatever else they are called, there are many actions you can take to limit your exposure and in turn improve your health.
Taking into account all the air quality indicators mentioned in the above sections, we can now look at solutions to increase the air quality in our homes. These are discussed below.
Solutions to better Air Quality and better Health:
♦ Ventilation and Moisture Control
Good ventilation is probably the best and cheapest way to ensure a healthy you and a healthy home.
We’ve already mentioned that by just opening and closing windows we cannot guarantee (in the long term) the quality of air in our home. A properly designed ventilation system is much better and is important if you have already carried out improvements to make your home more airtight.
However, it’s difficult to recommend any one ventilation system over another as the options are dependent on various factors such as your budget, how air tight your home already is and also what kind of lifestyle you live.
For anyone on a budget, a decentralised ventilation system may be the answer, whilst whole house ventilation is something to consider if you can afford it.
♦ Decentralised Home Ventilation
From recent surveys we have seen on standard 2 or 3 bedroom homes, the most popular advice for anyone on a budget seems to be that continuous running humidity controlled extractor fans should be installed in the kitchen and bathroom, whilst humidity controlled wall vents or trickle vents to windows should be installed in other rooms.
The extractor fans in your bathroom and kitchen will draw in stale air, moisture, dust and toxins from each area of your home and this will be moved to the outside. Fresh filtered air (dependent on the quality of filter) will be drawn in through the trickle/ wall vents and assuming maximum cross flow ventilation, this will circulate throughout your home.
Remember though, that dust and grime will gradually build up within any extractor fan. To keep a fan working efficiently, you will want to ensure there is easy access for cleaning and servicing.
Energy ratings, humidity settings, reliability and how quiet* the fans are should also be a factor in deciding which ones to buy. Check reviews to get an idea of how reliable and effective any unit is.
If the ventilation in your home is working as it should, relative humidity will probably read between 50 and 60% throughout the property.
*It is known that some residents block off extractor fan units because of the noise. This defeats the object of the fan and will increase the likelihood of mould and subsequent health problems.
Sometimes trickle/passive wall vents and extractor fans are not always good enough to provide the fresh clean filtered air that you need. This may be due to underpowered extractor fans or the size and layout of the rooms restricting the cross flow ventilation.
Additionally curtains, shutters and the air tightness of internal doors may have an effect on the cross flow ventilation.
Carbon Dioxide (CO2) monitors are a relatively cheap way of identifying the quality of air in a particular room.
♦ Whole House Ventilation
Whole house ventilation may be more suitable, particularly if you have made (or intend to make) your home air tight. There are different solutions for whole house ventilation systems, and some can be expensive to purchase.
To design and fit such a system requires expert knowledge, but the benefits should include moisture control (ensuring that there is no damp or mould), better airflow throughout your home and more changes of fresh filtered air during any given period. This should lead to improved air quality and may also save money in the long term.
Whatever type of ventilation that you wish to consider, our recommendation is to seek out the services of a recommended ventilation expert, who will advise you of your best options. If you cannot find the advice locally but have an idea of the kind of ventilation that may be suitable for your home, then contact the manufacturer for advice.
♦ Ventilation – A Few Thoughts
The sooner you are able to install a decent ventilation system, then the sooner you will reap the benefits of better air quality. The lower humidity levels in your home will make it much more difficult for dust mites to breed and moulds to form. Particulates and toxin emissions will reduce, condensation will disappear and damp areas should dry out.
A more healthy you and a healthy home will be the result. You should also save on your energy bills, as evidence shows that residents feel warmer in homes with lower humidity and are less tempted to turn up the thermostat. As most people are aware, lowering your thermostat by just 1 degree will save energy and can knock up to 10% off your home heating bill.
However, it must be noted that ventilation isn’t the answer to everything. It takes time for any ventilation system to replace existing air with new fresh filtered air. In the meantime you will for at least a short time, be exposed to dust and toxins, etc. For example, even after cleaning your home, chemicals from furniture polishes, floor cleaners and sanitizers will still be around for a while.
So although good ventilation is always recommended, there are, as we shall see, other ways to improve our home air quality.
Note: If there are still signs of damp after a good ventilation system has been installed, then other factors are probably responsible. This is where you may need the help of an independent damp specialist who is experienced in dealing with damp related properties.
♦ Behavioural Changes
By making just a few behavioural changes, we will minimise the moisture circulating throughout our home. Examples include putting lids on pans when cooking, reducing shower times, making sure that tumble driers vent outside and drying clothes outside rather than in the home.
Behavioural changes such as the above will ensure that no matter what type of ventilation system you have, it won’t have to work so hard to reduce the moisture. Energy is saved, maintenance costs are reduced, and you will save money.
♦ Advice for buying household cleaning products, furnishings and everything else
Now that we know that most products emit some kind of toxic chemicals, then when we make a purchase it makes sense to look for less harmful alternatives. We’ve already touched upon the need to look at labels when buying washing powders and detergents.
The same advice applies to most cleaning products. Where available, buy plant based substitutes as they are usually the better option compared with synthetic or petrochemical based products.
You should be concerned if a label mentions danger or caution and recommends protection for hands and eyes or other parts of the body.
Note, however, that even natural and organic products may still cause a reaction to some people.
When we look at furniture such as mdf and plywood, we find that these are usually manufactured using toxic resins and glues, whilst even solid wood furniture may contain toxins from waxes, sealants, paint or other treatments.
Toxin free soft furnishings can also prove difficult to purchase, as often they are required to include fire retardant treatments, whilst bedding for example may include chemical treatments to make them stain or crease resistant.
Note: The ‘ethical consumer’ magazine’s shopping for furniture guide is our recommended read if considering a furniture related purchase.
Assuming that you can’t afford to replace everything at once, it might be an idea to make some kind of priority list. How to make a list is difficult and can depend on your situation. Consider a list based on the following:
• Room by room basis. Perhaps start off with the rooms you use the most. If for example, it’s the bedroom, your possible purchases may include natural and organic personal care products and bedding with protection against dust mites. For redecorating you could choose paints with low or totally free VOCs.
• Buy Second hand. As brand new items are likely to emit the most toxins, consider the purchase of used items where appropriate. Not only will there be fewer toxins, your carbon footprint will be reduced. The only possible environmental costs will be the transport of your purchases, the disposal of the packaging, and if applicable the cost of disposing of the product you have just replaced.
• Allergies. If you ever have regular symptoms such as feeling tired, headaches, itchiness or just feeling unwell, then don’t rule out the possibility that the cause as being something in the house. For example, many people find that laundry powders cause allergic reactions.
An allergy test and its subsequent results may be useful in identifying what in your home is causing the allergy. You will then be able to replace the relevant products or items as and when your circumstances dictate.
Note: Even with your priority list, you will probably find it difficult to alter your shopping habits. On the plus side many everyday items can be bought at not too much extra cost compared to your usual shop. Changes are probably best done gradually and perhaps as and when savings have been made elsewhere.
The biggest difficulty is how to source and substitute products you like, with ones that are less likely to contain and emit toxins, and are kinder to you and the environment.
Despite the challenges, it’s worth making the effort.
♦ Vacuum Cleaners, Dehumidifiers and Air Purifiers
Assuming that you have taken on board the advice given above, the air quality in your home will gradually improve. However dust is pretty much unavoidable and you will still possess some potentially harmful products. Some areas of damp may also persist.
Vacuum Cleaners
Regular vacuum cleaning and dusting with a damp cloth will help reduce the dust. When it’s time to replace your vacuum cleaner, look to purchase one that includes a true Hepa filter, as others are unlikely to be as efficient. Reliability and the energy rating should also be a consideration and take note that higher powered cleaners don’t always pick up the most dust.
‘Which’ magazine has useful reviews, but there is a £5 charge for a trial subscription. This will need to be cancelled before a month is up, otherwise you will end up being enrolled for a full year!
Dehumidifiers
Dehumidifiers are often recommended for damp homes, but if you have had the right ventilation system installed, there should be little requirement for a dehumidifier.
Over medium to long periods they can be quite expensive to run, but are still useful in situations where areas of your home need to dry out quickly. For example, if a leaking water pipe or immersion heater has caused extensive damage to your home.
Some people also use dehumidifiers to speed up drying their laundry. Just be aware that this is likely to be more expensive than drying your laundry in a well ventilated heated room.
For homes without decent ventilation and during colder periods, a dehumidifier can be an energy efficient way to dry laundry and it will also raise the temperature of the room that it is housed in. From experience a desiccant dehumidifier in cool or cold temperatures will dry clothes faster in comparison to a refrigerant dehumidifier. It gives out more heat and you may find that you are better able to delay putting your heating on. It does cost a little more to run though.
Best of all is the opportunity on a sunny day to dry your washing outside. There is no energy cost and the ultraviolet rays from the sun act as a free sanitiser to kill any germs that may remain from the washing of your laundry. And of course drying outside the home rather than within should reduce the amount of toxins that you breathe in.
Air Purifiers and Plants
Air Purifiers: If you wish to go one stage further, an air purifier is something to consider. Generally this is a device with one or more filters designed to improve the quality of air within a confined space. Each filter has a different purpose. For example, a HEPA filter will remove most particulates, whilst an activated Carbon filter will absorb toxins or VOCs (volatile organic compounds) as they are often called. The best air purifiers will reduce or remove dust, smoke, bacteria, viruses, mould spores, pollen and all manner of toxins.
As air purifiers and replacement filters can be expensive, you need to be pretty sure that you choose the model most suitable for your needs.
Check reviews and read as many articles as you find. In particular check the pros and cons of the different filters and know what size of room the air purifier is designed for.
Through independent tests, the best air purifiers have been shown to work effectively. Unfortunately, many fall short and sometimes are detrimental to health (apparently ones that generate ozone).
For starters, read the following articles:
1. How to buy the best air purifier – Which Magazine
2. Air purifying guides based on personal health requirements – Breathing Space
3. Air purifying tests – Allergy Cosmos
Plants: Another alternative to consider is to fill your home with plants, as these also have air purifying qualities – some more than others. However, a lot more space is required compared to a standard air purifier device. Most homes will not have sufficient space.
Additionally, the number of plants required to purify a home may work out to be expensive, and it helps if you are green fingered – unfortunately not everybody is. Time for looking after the plants will also be a problem for many people.
Before you buy: Before rushing out to buy a mass of plants or an air purifying unit, keep in mind that studies on the health benefits are few and far between.
Some independent real life research on air purifying units does seem to show some health benefits to certain groups of people, but there is no obvious mention of which type and model of air purifier was used. Research on air purifying plants is similar; however, with plants being relatively cheap, a house full of plants is worth a try and should at least improve your happiness and wellbeing.
Studies on using plants to improve the air quality outside the home are more promising. For example, planting trees in areas with poor air quality has been shown to reduce air pollution and improve people’s health. It is likely, therefore, that appropriate measures to reducing pollution in the home will also help.
Until more research is available, an air purifying unit and/or air purifying plants should only be used alongside the approaches mentioned in earlier sections, such as installing a ventilation system.
A Few Thoughts
It is obvious that regular cleaning and using a vacuum cleaner with a true HEPA filter is worthwhile. Dehumidifiers are useful in certain circumstances, whilst definitive proof on the health benefits of air purifiers is still required.
And finally…
As you have probably gathered, it’s difficult to work out what improvements should be made to improve the air quality in our home.
If you want to learn more about indoor air quality without wading through hundreds of online articles, then by far the best book that we have come across is called ‘A practical guide to indoor air quality’ by Dr Julie Riggs. It may be difficult to come by, but is definitely worth searching for.
SECTION 7 Issues And Energy Savings Outside Of Your Home
♦ Insulation
The type of property you live in may determine what insulation is possible (if not already there). Properties built before the 1920’s tend to be solid-wall properties, and therefore external wall insulation is usually recommended. However, it is expensive and can impair the visual appeal of a property. In that case, internal insulation should be considered, and although this is disruptive, it can be a good option if you also intend to carry out major decoration works.
If your property was built after the 1920s it would likely have a cavity wall and may be suitable for cavity wall insulation. The cost to install is relatively cheap and payback in energy savings is about 5 years. Some residents are eligible for grants and may be able to have the insulation installed free of charge. Check with your energy provider, local authority, or energy advisor.
If you are unsure whether cavity wall insulation has been installed, then look at the mortar for drilled holes. These should be in a regular pattern spaced about a metre or so both vertically and horizontally. Insulation will have been injected into the holes. This is usually mineral wool or expanded polystyrene beads, and in rarer cases foam insulation.
Homes built in the last 20 years or so are likely to have been built with solid insulation already included
Notes: Not all properties are suitable for cavity wall insulation. Properties to be particularly concerned about are those that:
- Are located near the sea or in another area with regular driving rain
- Have a cavity wall with less than a 2 inch gap
- Have evidence of damp walls
- Are built with non-standard aspects such as four or more storeys, an attached garage, extension or conservatory
- Include any timber or steel wall construction.
Expert advice is recommended no matter which type of insulation you wish to consider, and assuming that someone else is carrying out the work, try to check out any long term reviews that give proof as to their expertise.
Unfortunately, with poorly installed insulation of any type, you may end up with damp related problems that can be difficult and expensive to rectify. In particular, the cost of extracting cavity wall insulation can be many times the cost of installing it in the first place.
♦ Cables
There is a need to ensure that any cables entering your property through an external wall are fed through correctly to avoid water ingress.
Satellite cables for example should run down the side of the wall and below the level of the hole (drilled at a slight upwards angle) it is to be fed through. The cable should then gently U-turn up to and through the hole. Any subsequent rainwater falling onto the cable will then run down and drip off without causing a problem.
♦ Pipes
Any pipes exiting to the outside should be checked for gaps and sealed if necessary. Check also that drain pipes are in good condition and that there are no signs of leaks.
♦ Bricks and Mortar
Bricks and Mortar should be inspected to see whether there are any holes or gaps. Perhaps an external light, hanging basket or something else was once fixed to the wall. Over time, any holes or gaps will widen and so should be repaired as soon as possible.
From natural weathering, mortar will eventually crumble and cracks may appear. Repairs should be undertaken before the weather causes any more damage.
♦ Windows
When checking for window draughts, it is easier to inspect from inside rather than outside the home. Where possible, inspect the outside cills to make sure that the seals are in good condition.
♦ Damp and Draughts
The first signs of damp in any area should always be investigated, and any recommended works should be completed at the earliest opportunity. A delay may result in damp penetrating through to internal areas and lead to long term damp, mould and health issues.
Wherever cracks, holes and gaps appear there is the potential for water to enter the property. As we know, damp and mould issues can occur if nothing is done to stop the water ingress. Additionally, draughts will occur if your internal walls have not been fully sealed.
Final Thoughts
It is important to maintain the outside of your home and add insulation where possible. By keeping your home free of damp and draughts, maintenance costs will be minimal, energy savings will be made and your comfort levels will increase.
SECTION 8 Finding Good Tradespeople and Searching for Grants
You’ve made a big decision to carry out energy saving measures throughout your home, but you don’t feel that you have the skills for much of the work. You may also not have any spare money or access to low cost finance.
The first step is to check your finances. If little or none is available and depending on your circumstances, it may be possible for some energy saving measures to be carried out for free. Grants are also often available.
If you do have available funds and are looking to use a tradesperson, a recommendation by your family or friends can often be the best option. Other than that, you’ll need to look elsewhere. There are a number of possibilities, and we’ve supplied links to many of these below.
♦ Your Local Council
Your local council may offer a handyperson service. Minor repairs and improvements, including energy efficiency, are what’s on offer. Some of it may be free to those who qualify. In our area (Salford), the contact telephone number is 0161 793 9419.
Your local council will also hold information on what grants, initiatives or support are on offer from not just themselves, but also other local, regional or national sources. In our area (Salford), the contact telephone number is 0161 793 2264 and up to date details of energy efficiency in the home help is available on their website.
♦ Local Energy Advice Partnership
LEAP (local energy advice partnership) is a help and advisory service to help vulnerable households and those that are experiencing fuel poverty. Simple energy saving measures can be installed for free; energy saving advice is also free, and contact details are given for further help in other areas that the householder might find useful.
The service is fully funded by the main energy providers and is partnered by several organisations, including local authority and social housing providers, food banks, health clinics and Citizens Advice. For more information click the link below:
A free service to help people keep warm and reduce their energy bills – LEAP
♦ The Government Energy Advice Endorsed Website
The Government endorsed simple energy advice website also offers advice and information on the availability of grants.
♦ Age UK
Age UK also has handyperson services in many regions.
♦ Energy Suppliers
A number of energy suppliers also offer funding for energy efficiency measures, under what is called the ‘Energy Company Obligation’. It’s not available to everyone and is aimed at those who qualify for the ‘Warm Home Discount Scheme’ or who are in receipt of certain benefits and also satisfy some income requirements. If you live in social housing with a low EPC rating, you may also qualify for help.
♦ Trustmark
Trustmark is a government endorsed scheme where contractors are vetted before being able to register their details on the website. Technical competence is at the heart of the scheme, and there is more protection for consumers compared to similar schemes.
Eligibility for some grants is dependent on the work being carried out by Trustmark vetted contractors. Checkout the Trustmark website for more information.
♦ ‘Which’ Magazine Charitable Enterprise
Which magazine also has a trusted traders scheme with reviews given by consumers after work has been completed.
♦ Checkatrade
Another similar scheme is operated by Checkatrade where reviews are available.
♦ Rated People
Rated People gives you the opportunity to obtain up to 3 quotes for any job that you have in mind.
♦ Local Heroes
Local Heroes is the British Gas owned scheme and the plus point is a 12 month guarantee for any completed work paid online via their site.
SECTION 9 You’ve Read The Guide – What Now?
Okay, you’ve read the guide or at least the sections of most interest to you and wonder where to start. Everyone one has different ways of working, and making changes to your home, garden or lifestyle is no different.
If you’re stuck, then our suggestion is to look for quick and easy wins where you can save money, increase your comfort levels and improve your wellbeing. Quick and easy wins will encourage you to look at more costly and involved measures.
To help you begin we’ve selected a number of measures that we feel will produce the maximum benefits for relatively little cost or even for free.
1. Check whether savings can be made by changing your energy supplier* or moving on to a different tariff with your existing supplier. £30+ savings are easily possible, especially if you’ve never changed tariffs before.
*Note 22/03/22: With the new energy price cap rise to take place on the 1st April and the lack of any decent fixed rate deals, the only offer of a reasonable deal may come from your existing supplier. And that may be something as simple as saving money by paying by direct debit.
Additionally grants and other help may be able to householders struggling to pay their bills. The money saving expert website created by Martin Lewis has a very useful article on what help is available.
2. If you don’t have a water meter, contact your water utilities company to find out whether having one installed will save you some money.
Even in circumstances where it is currently impossible to have a water meter, your water company can calculate a bill based on the average water usage of the number of people in your household.
Small households with average water usage needs should be able to save money.
3. Make sure that you have a full set of heating controls, you know how to use them and that each room is heated adequately and not on for no good reason.
For those of you with gas central heating, the controls should include a programmer/timer, a room thermostat and radiators with thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs).
Research conducted by The University of Salford shows that homes without temperature controls can pay an extra 40% in gas heating bills.
4. There are still a substantial number of households on Economy 7 tariffs or similar.
The best advice is to ensure that as many energy using tasks are carried out during the cheaper period (usually during the night, but check with your network operator or energy supplier). These include immersion heaters, washing machines and dishwashers.
The day time standard tariff rate is much more expensive than the cheaper rate.
5. Seal any draughts such as around windows, doors, upstairs lights and plumbing exit areas. Also check outside for gaps in bricks and mortar, TV/Satellite cable entry points and around pipes.
Water ingress can cause or contribute to damp problems.
The combination of draughts and heat loss through gaps has been estimated to be as much as 25%.
6. Check that you have energy efficient lighting (LED’s preferably, but fluorescent is fine) in rooms where lights are switched on the most. Note that up until LED light bulbs became available, most householders spent between 15 and 20% of their total energy costs on lighting.
And don’t forget to turn off your lights as you leave a room.
7. Do you have adequate loft insulation, and don’t forget the hatch? – remember a grant for insulation work and other small energy efficiency measures may be available. About 25% of heat is lost through a loft with little or no insulation.
8. If accessible, insulate the pipes to your bath, shower and hot water taps. You won’t have to wait so long for warm water, and you will save energy and water.
9. Try to reduce your shower times – big savings are possible, especially for those of you with a water meter. As an example, at 18p per kilowatt, a 4 minute shower with a 10.5kw rating will cost £45.43 per year. A 15 minute shower will cost £170.35 per year.
Bath users should consider a shower attachment or reducing the amount of water used.
10. Don’t forget that little savings add up and can be a good contribution towards your household budget or even a big treat. Keep your windows closed whilst the heating is on, put lids on pans when cooking, switch off appliances, computers and gadgets when not in use, don’t over fill your kettle, keep your doors shut and last but not least close curtains at night.
£50 plus savings should be possible.
11. Repairability, reliability and energy efficiency should be part of your thought process when looking to buy. Online reviews can provide a wealth of information and it is advisable to take particular note of bad ratings and be on the lookout for the many false reviews. Also remember that sites such as ‘freegle’ may have what you want for free.
By just completing a few tasks, such as those mentioned above, you will save money and this can be used to fund further more expensive measures. You will also be making an important contribution to improving the environment.
Enjoy and good luck with your endeavours
